After the summer, brown spots can seem more visible. On the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, or even the bridge of the nose, melasma indeed tends to intensify under the effect of light exposure. And while hormones often play a role in its appearance, particularly during pregnancy, the sun is one of its main triggering and aggravating factors.
Sun protection is therefore essential when you have melasma. But choosing a sunscreen for melasma does not simply mean looking for the highest possible SPF. UVB rays are only part of the problem: UVA rays and certain wavelengths of visible light can also stimulate pigmentation.
So, what should you really look for? A high, broad-spectrum daily photoprotection, good UVA protection, sufficient and regular application, and, in certain situations, protection against visible light.
Sunscreen alone, however, does not make an existing melasma disappear. It mainly helps to prevent it from worsening and constitutes a pillar of its management.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a chronic pigmentation disorder characterized by the appearance of brown or gray-brown spots, generally symmetrical. It mainly affects the areas of the face most exposed to light: the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, nose, and sometimes the chin.
It corresponds to an excessive production of melanin by melanocytes. Its origin is multifactorial: genetic predisposition, sun exposure, skin phototype, and hormonal factors can all play a role. Research also suggests that changes related to skin photoaging contribute to its pathophysiology.
However, not all brown spots are melasma. Solar lentigines, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and other pigmentary disorders can sometimes present a similar appearance. A dermatologist remains the appropriate professional to establish the diagnosis.
Why can melasma worsen after the summer?
It is no coincidence that pigmentation sometimes seems more pronounced upon returning from vacation.
Repeated exposure to solar radiation stimulates melanogenesis, i.e., the production of melanin. In skin predisposed to melasma, this stimulation can gradually make the pigmented areas darker and more visible.
UVB rays contribute to this phenomenon, but they are not the only ones to blame. UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin, also contribute to pigmentary mechanisms and photoaging.
This is precisely why looking only at the SPF number is not enough.
SPF and melasma: why an SPF50 doesn't tell the whole story
The SPF mainly measures the ability of a sunscreen to protect the skin against UVB rays, which are notably responsible for sunburn.
However, in the context of melasma, one must also be interested in protection against UVA rays.
This is notably the role of the PA rating. PA+, PA++, PA+++, or PA++++ indicate different levels of UVA protection. The more "+" signs it has, the higher the measured protection. You can find how this notation works in our guide dedicated to the PA rating and UVA protection.
For skin with melasma or a tendency to hyperpigmentation, a high, broad-spectrum protection is therefore particularly relevant. Rather than just looking for "SPF50" on the packaging, you must consider UVB and UVA protection together.
If you wish to understand more precisely the difference between the various ratings, our article SPF25 vs SPF50: what level of sun protection to choose for daily use? reviews their differences.
Melasma and visible light: the factor we often forget
Photoprotection for melasma does not necessarily stop at ultraviolet rays.
Visible light represents the part of electromagnetic radiation that our eyes can perceive. Blue light, or high-energy visible light, constitutes a portion of it.
Experimental work has shown that certain wavelengths of visible light can cause more intense and persistent pigmentation, particularly on darker phototypes. This is significant given that melasma is precisely a hyperpigmentation disorder.
A randomized clinical study published in 2014 also compared, in people with melasma, UV-only photoprotection with protection also covering part of the visible light, in addition to a depigmenting treatment. The group benefiting from protection extended to visible light achieved better results regarding pigmentation.
Another trial published in 2015 studied the prevention of melasma recurrence and also supports the interest of extending photoprotection to short wavelengths of visible light.
This does not mean that visible light and blue light are synonyms. Blue light is only a portion of the visible spectrum.
To learn more about this distinction and its cutaneous effects, consult our article dedicated to protecting skin against blue light.
Should you choose a tinted sunscreen for melasma?
This is a particularly interesting point in the case of melasma.
Classic sunscreens are designed primarily for ultraviolet rays. They do not necessarily provide significant protection against all visible light.
Tinted protections containing notably iron oxides can provide additional protection against certain wavelengths of the visible spectrum. Dermatological reviews thus consider them to be particularly interesting for hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma.
This does not mean, however, that any tinted cream effectively protects against visible light: the formulation and the pigments used matter.
One must also distinguish this type of pigmentary photoprotection from an invisible formula claiming absorption of part of the blue spectrum. The mechanisms and levels of protection are not necessarily equivalent.
For people particularly prone to melasma, especially those with phototypes III to VI, the question of tinted photoprotection can be discussed with a dermatologist.
Melasma, hormones, and pregnancy: what's the link?
Melasma is sometimes called "pregnancy mask" or chloasma when it appears during pregnancy.
Hormonal changes can promote melanogenesis in predisposed individuals. This is why a pregnancy, as well as certain hormonal treatments or contraceptives, can be associated with the appearance or worsening of melasma.
But hormones are not a sole cause. Melasma generally results from several factors, among which light plays a major role.
Sun protection against hyperpigmentation during pregnancy is therefore particularly interesting when a person presents or has already presented a pregnancy mask.
This does not mean that all pregnant women will develop melasma, nor that every spot appearing during pregnancy is one.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding and also wish to use depigmenting active ingredients, ask a healthcare professional for advice: some dermatological treatments are not suitable during this period.
How much sunscreen to apply in case of melasma?
Even the best protection on paper loses its value if it is applied in insufficient quantity.
SPF tests are performed with a standardized quantity of product. In daily life, under-application is common: spreading a very small amount of SPF50 over the entire face does not allow one to assume they are benefiting from the level of protection indicated on the bottle.
Application must therefore be sufficient and even, without forgetting the contours of the face, temples, hairline, ears, and neck when they are exposed.
We have dedicated a complete guide to the amount of sunscreen to apply to the face to explain, notably, the dose used during tests and the so-called "two-finger" rule.
Is reapplication really important?
Yes. Correct application in the morning does not mean that the protective film will remain perfectly intact until evening.
Sweat, water, friction, and daily activities can alter it. In case of prolonged sun exposure, regular reapplication is therefore essential.
The problem is mainly practical: reapplying a sun fluid on bare skin is simple; doing so over finished makeup is much less so.
In this case, the format used can facilitate the gesture. Our guide notably explains how to reapply your sun protection over makeup without having to restart your entire routine.
In the context of melasma, this regularity is particularly important: photoprotection works better as a daily habit than as an occasional reaction to very sunny days.
What about blue light from screens?
Phones, computers, and tablets also emit blue light. But here, a frequent shortcut must be avoided.
The data showing a pigmentogenic effect of visible light have mainly studied light exposures that are not comparable to ordinary use of a screen.
The sun remains by far the light source that must be prioritized in a photoprotection strategy for melasma. The available data do not allow one to equate a day of exposure to solar radiation with a few hours spent in front of a computer.
In other words, protecting skin prone to melasma from visible light can be relevant; this does not mean that one should consider their phone the main cause of their spots.
Can sunscreen make melasma disappear?
No. This is probably the most important distinction of this article.
Sun protection, on its own, does not constitute a treatment capable of erasing an established melasma.
Its role consists notably in limiting exposure to radiation capable of maintaining pigmentation and in reducing the risk of aggravation or recurrence. It therefore supports other measures that may be proposed in dermatological management.
A dermatologist can, depending on the diagnosis and individual situation, propose different therapeutic approaches. Their choice depends notably on the phototype, depth of pigmentation, treatments already tried, and, if applicable, a pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Photoprotection remains fundamental: treating hyperpigmentation while continuing to expose it without protection to the factors that maintain it would be counterproductive.
Our recommendations
For skin prone to melasma or pigment spots, the primary objective is to establish high protection against UVB and UVA rays every morning, and then to maintain this protection when exposure requires it.
The Substance Of Light® SPF50 PA++++ Hydrating Protective Fluid combines an SPF50 with UVA PA++++ protection. Its formula is invisible and contains notably niacinamide, aloe vera, as well as vitamins C and E. The brand also reports, based on a measurement of transmittance between 380 and 450 nm, up to 27% absorbed blue light.
This last piece of data must, however, be interpreted precisely: it does not mean that the Fluid treats melasma, nor that it provides the same protection against all visible light as a tinted screen formulated with pigments such as iron oxides. It is a measured characteristic of the formula, distinct from clinical data on tinted protections.
To maintain protection throughout the day, the TRUE FILTER™ SPF25 PA+++ Urban Protective Mist constitutes a format designed for reapplication, notably over makeup. It combines SPF25 PA+++ UV protection with protection claimed by the brand against blue visible light.
The principle is therefore not to multiply products, but to ensure sufficiently high protection in the morning, followed by realistic reapplication during the day.
The right habits in case of melasma
Photoprotection is more effective when it does not rely on SPF alone. In daily life, prioritize high protection covering UVB and UVA, apply enough of it, and renew it according to your exposure. Wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and seeking shade also constitute simple ways to reduce direct exposure of the face.
If your melasma is particularly sensitive to visible light, tinted protection containing suitable pigments may offer an additional benefit, to be discussed with your dermatologist.
Finally, do not reserve these habits only for vacations. UVA and visible light do not disappear on September 1st: skin prone to melasma benefits above all from regular photoprotection throughout the year.
FAQ
What SPF to choose when you have melasma?
High, broad-spectrum protection is generally prioritized. An SPF50 offers strong protection against UVB, but it is also important to look for high UVA protection. In the case of melasma, looking only at the SPF number is therefore not enough.
Does SPF50 prevent melasma?
It helps to reduce exposure to UVB, but no sunscreen alone guarantees that melasma will never appear or worsen. Melasma is multifactorial, and UVA rays as well as visible light can also be involved.
Can sunscreen make melasma disappear?
No. Photoprotection helps limit aggravation and recurrences, but it does not in itself constitute a treatment capable of erasing established melasma.
Which sunscreen to choose for a pregnancy mask?
High, broad-spectrum sun protection, used regularly, is particularly relevant when the skin has a tendency to melasma during pregnancy. The choice of other active ingredients or treatments for spots should be discussed with a healthcare professional.
Is a tinted sunscreen preferable against melasma?
It can present an advantage when its formulation contains pigments, notably iron oxides, capable of attenuating certain wavelengths of visible light. The available data are particularly interesting in the context of melasma.
Does blue light from screens worsen melasma?
The evidence is much less robust for ordinary exposure to screens than for visible light coming from the sun. In a photoprotection strategy, sun exposure therefore remains the priority.
Should melasma be protected from the sun in autumn and winter?
Yes. Melasma is a chronic condition, and photoprotection should not be considered only during summer holidays. The intensity and methods of protection can be adapted to actual exposure, but consistency remains important.
Bibliography
- Castanedo-Cázares JP, Hernandez-Blanco D, Carlos-Ortega B, Fuentes-Ahumada C, Torres-Álvarez B. Near-visible light and UV photoprotection in the treatment of melasma: a double-blind randomized trial. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine. 2014;30(1):35–42.
- Boukari F et al. Prevention of melasma relapses with sunscreen combining protection against UV and short wavelengths of visible light: a prospective randomized comparative trial. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2015;72(1).
- Lyons AB, Trullas C, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2021;84(5):1393–1397.
- He M, Chen X, Jin S, Zhang C. Visible Light Protection: An Updated Review of Tinted Sunscreens. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine. 2025;41(4):e70033.
